Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Binibining Wanderlust
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Pyestang tugak started in 2003 to perpetuate the beautiful
traditions that emerged through the years in catching and cooking frogs
that used to abound in the rice fields of Pampanga. The
citizens of San Fernando have reserved a special day every year to honor
this amphibian because of its important contributions to the
environment, the economy and culture. It also resembles the Fernandino
in many ways, including its resiliency.
Tradition
 |
| Photography by Sidney Snoeck |
Pyestang
tugak started in 2003 to perpetuate the beautiful traditions that
emerged through the years in catching and cooking frogs that used to
abound in the rice fields of Pampanga. The citizens of San Fernando have
reserved a special day every year to honor this amphibian because of
its important contributions to the environment, the economy and culture.
It also resembles the Fernandino in many ways, including its
resiliency.
The frog is
part of Kapampangan tradition and culinary culture. It is said that in
the early days when the farmers were totally dependent on rainwater to
irrigate their farms, the children would gamely catch the frogs while
their elders were busy cultivating the land or planting rice. This
“game” eventually became an opportunity for families to establish strong
bond as the technique used in catching frogs evolved to the point of
being ritualistic. It was not unusual to see families lined up on top of
‘pilapil’ in many rice fields with their ‘paduas’ on one hand and
‘panyapu’ on the other. They would patiently wait for the frogs to bite
the “bulating tudtud” as they move the ‘paduas’ in slow horizontal
direction. They do this very quietly so that the frogs would not be
agitated
This practice was handed down to the
succeeding generations. Up to this time, though their number has
decreased, many families still carry this tradition as they catch frogs
for their own consumption or for selling purposes.
Frog Cuisines
Known
for their virtuosity in their cuisine, the Kapampangan ultimately
discovered the gastronomic attributes of the frog. Thus, recipes were
formulated using indigenous ingredients. These include the “betute”
which is a pun for “butete”. The latter is a Kapampangan word for
tadpole. “Betute”, on the other hand, is dressed frog stuffed with
minced frog meat or pork and some finely chopped ingredients.
Fried farm frogs really taste like chicken.
Other
old recipes are “adobong tugak”, “tinolang tugak”, “lelot” and
almondegas. The manner of cooking frog varies in many places in
Pampanga. It is noteworthy to mention that these indigenous cooking
procedures were passed on to family members through the years.
Environment
One
important characteristic of the frogs is that they eat insects which
they catch through their long and sticky tongues. They help farmers get
rid of bugs and other creepy creatures that destroy the plants.
Today,
when the thought of dengue fever brings chill into our spines, the
frogs can be of help in snuffing out these “killer flies”.
Economic Contributions
Everybody
in the City of San Fernando would agree that the frog contributes to
the income generated by the restaurants who serve this delicacy. Many
regular costumers of these eateries go to them when they search for
exotic food such as the frog. The continued patronage of the frog
cuisine ensures a stable income to the restaurants and to frog catchers,
as well.
Resiliency
The
frog is one of the most resilient animal. It can live in water, on land
and even on trees and rocks. It can easily adjust to the environment.
This
is also true among Kapampangans. They can adjust to any situation
allowing them to recover easily from crisis. The Pinatubo experience is
one proof of this resiliency. After 13 years, except for the buried
houses in Bacolor and Porac, it is very hard to see traces of the
Pinatubo calamity in Pampanga. San Fernando is now a multi-awarded
flourishing city despite the fact that several of its barangays were
buried in lahar in 1995.
(From: http://www.cityofsanfernando.gov.ph/tourism/ptugak2.php)
Friday, January 04, 2013
Binibining Wanderlust
