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September 26, 2012

Pyestang Tugak (Frog Festival), San Fernando Pampanga

Pyestang tugak started in 2003 to perpetuate the beautiful traditions that emerged through the years in catching and cooking frogs that used to abound in the rice fields of Pampanga. The citizens of San Fernando have reserved a special day every year to honor this amphibian because of its important contributions to the environment, the economy and culture. It also resembles the Fernandino in many ways, including its resiliency.

Tradition

Photography by Sidney Snoeck
Pyestang tugak started in 2003 to perpetuate the beautiful traditions that emerged through the years in catching and cooking frogs that used to abound in the rice fields of Pampanga. The citizens of San Fernando have reserved a special day every year to honor this amphibian because of its important contributions to the environment, the economy and culture. It also resembles the Fernandino in many ways, including its resiliency.
The frog is part of Kapampangan tradition and culinary culture. It is said that in the early days when the farmers were totally dependent on rainwater to irrigate their farms, the children would gamely catch the frogs while their elders were busy cultivating the land or planting rice. This “game” eventually became an opportunity for families to establish strong bond as the technique used in catching frogs evolved to the point of being ritualistic. It was not unusual to see families lined up on top of ‘pilapil’ in many rice fields with their ‘paduas’ on one hand and ‘panyapu’ on the other. They would patiently wait for the frogs to bite the “bulating tudtud” as they move the ‘paduas’ in slow horizontal direction. They do this very quietly so that the frogs would not be agitated
 
This practice was handed down to the succeeding generations. Up to this time, though their number has decreased, many families still carry this tradition as they catch frogs for their own consumption or for selling purposes.

 Frog Cuisines

Known for their virtuosity in their cuisine, the Kapampangan ultimately discovered the gastronomic attributes of the frog. Thus, recipes were formulated using indigenous ingredients. These include the “betute” which is a pun for “butete”. The latter is a Kapampangan word for tadpole. “Betute”, on the other hand, is dressed frog stuffed with minced frog meat or pork and some finely chopped ingredients.  


Fried farm frogs really taste like chicken.

Other old recipes are “adobong tugak”, “tinolang tugak”, “lelot” and almondegas. The manner of cooking frog varies in many places in Pampanga. It is noteworthy to mention that these indigenous cooking procedures were passed on to family members through the years.
 
Environment

One important characteristic of the frogs is that they eat insects which they catch through their long and sticky tongues. They help farmers get rid of bugs and other creepy creatures that destroy the plants.

Today, when the thought of dengue fever brings chill into our spines, the frogs can be of help in snuffing out these “killer flies”.

Economic Contributions

Everybody in the City of San Fernando would agree that the frog contributes to the income generated by the restaurants who serve this delicacy. Many regular costumers of these eateries go to them when they search for exotic food such as the frog. The continued patronage of the frog cuisine ensures a stable income to the restaurants and to frog catchers, as well.

Resiliency

The frog is one of the most resilient animal. It can live in water, on land and even on trees and rocks. It can easily adjust to the environment.

This is also true among Kapampangans. They can adjust to any situation allowing them to recover easily from crisis. The Pinatubo experience is one proof of this resiliency. After 13 years, except for the buried houses in Bacolor and Porac, it is very hard to see traces of the Pinatubo calamity in Pampanga. San Fernando is now a multi-awarded flourishing city despite the fact that several of its barangays were buried in lahar in 1995.

(From: http://www.cityofsanfernando.gov.ph/tourism/ptugak2.php) 

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